The Finale area, land of crags
The Finale area is one of Europe's best-known sport climbing regions. You climb on limestone full of pockets and holds, with more than 3,500 routes on some 200 equipped walls and a wide range of grades, for beginners and experts alike. The first routes were opened in 1968 by the brothers Gianluigi and Eugenio Vaccari.
A few crags
- Bric Pianarella: huge walls and a great many routes (some sectors are closed, see below).
- Grotta dell'Edera, in the Monte Sordo woods: you descend into a large cylinder formed by a collapsed roof and climb its walls.
- Bric del Frate: a good place for beginners.
- Paretina di Pian Marino: excellent rock, from grade 5 upwards.
Nesting bans
Some walls are closed to protect nesting birds of prey such as the peregrine falcon and the eagle owl. The bans stem from a 1994 agreement between climbers, WWF and LIPU and are issued by the Province of Savona. According to the list published in 2023, some apply from 1 January to 31 July (for example Monte Tolla, Bric Reseghe and Rocca degli Uccelli) and others all year, such as the whole Capo Noli crag above the Aurelia and sectors of Caprazzoppa, Pianarella and Rocca di Corno. Check the current list on finaleoutdoor.com before you go.
When to climb
Thanks to the mild climate you can climb all year: in winter look for sunny walls, in summer for shady ones and the early hours. Spring and autumn are often the most pleasant seasons.
Guides, courses and indoor walls
Local guides offer guiding and courses, including for beginners, and Finale Ligure has indoor walls for training or rainy days. After climbing, people often meet up in Finalborgo, the medieval village close to many crags.
Where to stay
From Smeraldo and Acquamarina, in central Finale 20 metres from the sea, Finalborgo and the inland crags are a few minutes' drive. Perla del Borgo, in Borgio Verezzi, is handy for the walls between Finale and Pietra Ligure. For a whole climbing season, see our monthly rentals.
